Conquering Kilimanjaro

As our plane descended into Julius Nyerere Airport, the city lights of Dar es Salaam shimmered below, twinkling like a starry night. It was hard to believe that just a few hours earlier, we had left behind a freezing Johannesburg. Now, the thick, humid air hit us as we stepped off the plane, a warm welcome to East Africa. The buzzing of large praying mantises around our heads and the unexpected sound of a chicken clucking in the distance were the moments that made it feel like we had truly arrived in Tanzania.

Once through the slow process of customs, we were greeted by the friendly staff of our hotel shuttle, ready to take us through the dimly lit streets of Dar es Salaam to the Paradise City Hotel. Even though it was late, the city hummed with life. At the hotel, we found spacious rooms, satellite television, and, most importantly, refreshing air conditioning – a welcome respite from the heat outside. Exhausted after our travels, we settled in for a few hours of rest, knowing our real adventure would begin in the morning.

A Flight to Kilimanjaro and First Glimpse of the Mighty Mountain

After a much-needed sleep and a breakfast served with smiles and a good, strong cup of coffee, we headed back to the airport. Our next destination? Kilimanjaro International Airport. As we flew over the mighty Mount Kilimanjaro, its snow-capped peak emerged briefly from the clouds. It was a moment of awe – the mountain seemed both imposing and inviting, a challenge we would soon face head-on.

On landing, we were met by our trekking operator, Tanzania Experience, who would guide us both on our Kilimanjaro climb and our safari. The drive to Keys Hotel in Moshi was peaceful, a world away from the bustle of Dar es Salaam. Nestled under lush palm trees with a bright blue swimming pool, the hotel was the perfect place to rest and prepare for the climb ahead. The town itself felt calm and serene, surrounded by coffee plantations and the imposing presence of Kilimanjaro in the distance.

As evening fell, we gathered for a pre-trek meeting with Achim, our guide, who brought with him all the gear we had pre-ordered. After a thorough briefing about what to expect on the trek and some last-minute advice on dealing with altitude sickness, we felt both excited and a little anxious about the challenge that lay ahead. After all, Kilimanjaro is no small feat. With hiking boots on and walking sticks in hand, we sat down to a wood-fired pizza, enjoying the anticipation of the adventure that was about to unfold.

The Climb Begins: Hiking to Machame Camp

Our journey began early the next morning, greeted by the sound of noisy ibis birds and a steady drizzle of rain. By the time we arrived at Machame Gate, standing at 1490 meters, the rain had set the tone for the day. But with our waterproof gear on and our backpacks loaded, we were ready. Kilimanjaro, hidden by clouds, was still a mystery – yet the excitement of the unknown kept our spirits high.

We set off through the rainforest, lush and alive with the calls of monkeys and the rustling of the canopy overhead. The thick green forest seemed to wrap around us as we ascended. The altitude was already making itself known, and as we trekked higher, the climb began to take its toll. Our guide, Gideon, noticed my struggle and kindly took my daypack, offering reassurance that we weren’t far from camp. His calm presence was a comfort, and soon enough, we reached Machame Camp, nestled at 2980 meters.

After a challenging day, we were greeted with bowls of warm water to freshen up, followed by a cup of tea and some popcorn. The combination of the mountain air and the East African tradition of tea with popcorn lifted my spirits. Dinner that evening was a surprise – a delicious cucumber soup, beef kebabs, and an avocado cup filled with fruit salad for dessert. It was hard to believe such gourmet meals could be made in these conditions, but the food became a highlight of each day.

Shira Camp and the First Glimpse of Kilimanjaro

The next morning, we woke to a sight that took our breath away – the snowy peak of Kilimanjaro, finally revealing itself. Its towering presence filled us with both awe and humility. After a hearty breakfast of porridge, coffee, and eggs, we set off again, this time through a landscape that was entirely different from the rainforest of the day before. The trail led us through moss-covered trees, vibrant flowers, and shrubs, with Kilimanjaro watching over us from the distance.

By midday, we had reached Shira Camp at 3720 meters, standing high above the clouds. The views were staggering, and we spent the afternoon acclimatizing, hiking to a nearby point at 3900 meters. The altitude was beginning to make itself felt, but the stunning landscape, with its giant Senecio trees and otherworldly atmosphere, kept us going.

Lava Tower and Barranco Camp: The Challenge Intensifies

The next day was a tough one. We hiked up to Lava Tower, a massive rock formation at 4600 meters, before descending again to Barranco Camp. The ascent was hard, the air thin, and every step a reminder of the challenge we were undertaking. But the reward was worth it – as we descended, the views of Kilimanjaro became even more dramatic. The terrain shifted once more, and we found ourselves surrounded by the famous Moorlands, with their misty, ancient landscapes and towering giant trees.

After a long day, we arrived at Barranco Camp just as darkness fell, utterly exhausted but satisfied with the day’s progress. A warm meal and the camaraderie of our fellow climbers made for a perfect end to the day.

Barafu Camp and the Final Push to the Summit

The fourth day on the mountain was one of anticipation. We knew that the next morning would bring the final ascent to the summit. After a steep climb through barren, moon-like terrain, we reached Barafu Camp, the last stop before the summit. At 4640 meters, the air was thin, and the cold was biting. We layered up, trying to get a few hours of rest before the midnight ascent.

At 11:30 pm, we were woken for tea and biscuits, our breath visible in the icy air. Headlamps on, we began the final push to Uhuru Peak. Slowly, we snaked our way up the mountain, a trail of lights winding toward the stars. Every step was an effort, but as the sun began to rise, painting the horizon in shades of pink and orange, it felt like we were on top of the world – and in a way, we were.

At Stella Point (5730 meters), the second-highest point on the mountain, I stopped, overwhelmed by the beauty and emotion of the moment. The summit of Uhuru Peak was just a short distance away, but after such an incredible journey, I was content to take it all in from where I stood.

The Descent and Reflections

The descent from Kilimanjaro was long and arduous, taking us from the icy peaks back down through the Moorlands, past the dense rainforest, and finally to Moshi. In one day, we traversed the many layers of the mountain, from snow to shrubs to jungle, each step taking us closer to the comforts of a hot shower and a warm bed.

As we arrived back at Keys Hotel, exhausted but elated, we were greeted with certificates of achievement and a celebration from our crew. The Kilimanjaro Song filled the air, and we toasted to an adventure that had challenged us, inspired us, and ultimately rewarded us with memories we would carry forever.

Kilimanjaro had left its mark on us. The mountain, with its ever-changing landscapes and its towering presence, had become a part of our story. As we said goodbye to the crew and the mountain that had tested us in every way, we knew that one day, we would be back – ready to take on the challenge once again.

Ready to conquer Kilimanjaro?