Exploring Ethiopia’s northern historical route

Claire Monson, our founder, tells of her explorations through landscapes steeped in rich historical memory...

Ethiopia is a land of rich history, awe-inspiring legends, and remarkable diversity. While the south boasts vibrant cultures and untouched wildlife, the north is a treasure trove of ancient wonders. It was here, on the Northern Historical Route, that I embarked on a seven-day journey into the heart of one of Africa’s most captivating regions. Though we only had a week, this route deserves at least ten days to truly absorb the fascinating stories and appreciate the monumental achievements of its ancient civilizations.

Day 1: Arrival in Addis Ababa – Gateway to Ethiopia’s Past

Our adventure began in the bustling capital, Addis Ababa. Stepping off the plane, I was greeted by the warmth of the Ethiopian sun and the hospitable welcome of our Dinknesh tour guide. The drive through Addis offered a glimpse of a city blending history and modernity, with its vibrant streets, mountain views, and proud cultural heritage.

Our home for the night was the Queen of Sheba Hotel, a comfortable four-star retreat offering all the conveniences a traveller could need. Free internet, warm hospitality, and relaxing spaces set the tone for the journey ahead. We gathered for dinner, anticipation hanging in the air as we prepared for the historical marvels that awaited us.

Day 2: From Addis to Bahir Dar – The Blue Nile and Beyond

An early morning flight whisked us away from the city to Bahir Dar, a serene town nestled on the shores of Lake Tana, Ethiopia's largest lake. The flight itself was a spectacle, soaring over the Blue Nile and watching the lush green landscapes unfold below us. Once on the ground, a refreshing cup of Ethiopia’s famous coffee greeted us – the first of many – and we embarked on a short drive to Bahir Dar City.

The highlight of the day? A journey to the mighty Blue Nile Falls. As we trekked through muddy paths alongside friendly locals, the sound of rushing water grew louder, until finally, the Falls revealed themselves in all their glory. Cascading down from the highlands, the sight of the thundering waters was nothing short of awe-inspiring. After soaking in the views, we returned to our hotel, the Summerlands, where the comforts of mosquito nets and warm beds awaited after a long day.

Day 3: The Monasteries of Lake Tana

Day three brought with it a peaceful start as we sailed across the calm waters of Lake Tana. Hidden among the lake’s islands are centuries-old monasteries, relics of Ethiopia’s ancient Christian heritage. The lush, jungle-like surroundings and the sight of papyrus boats drifting along the water made it feel like stepping into a forgotten time. Our visit to Azwa Mariam Monastery, with its colourful murals and sacred artifacts, gave us a deeper understanding of Ethiopia’s spiritual history.

The afternoon was spent driving towards Gondar, a city known for its stunning castles and churches. The scenic drive through picturesque villages offered glimpses of daily life in rural Ethiopia – a beautiful contrast to the historic grandeur we would soon experience.

Day 4: Gondar – Castles and Ancient Glory

Gondar, Ethiopia’s 16th-century capital, was once home to emperors and grand palaces. The day was spent exploring King Fasilides’ Castle, a majestic structure surrounded by remnants of royal life. As we wandered through the ancient halls, steam rooms, and banquet halls, it was easy to imagine the lavish feasts and grand ceremonies that once took place here.

That evening, we were treated to a traditional Ethiopian dinner, complete with Teff bread – a delicious pancake-like staple – and the unique experience of a Coffee Ceremony. Watching the beans roast and grind before being brewed into rich, aromatic coffee was a true cultural immersion.

Day 5: Lalibela – A Journey into Ethiopia’s Spiritual Heart

Lalibela is often described as the "New Jerusalem" of Ethiopia, and it’s easy to see why. After a short flight, we found ourselves in a village where time seemed to stand still. Our day was dedicated to exploring the rock-hewn churches, magnificent structures carved into the earth itself. St. George’s Church, perhaps the most famous, stood out for its cross-shaped design and spiritual significance.

Walking through the underground tunnels connecting the churches, I couldn’t help but marvel at the craftsmanship and dedication it took to create these colossal structures. It was a day filled with wonder, history, and reverence.

Day 6: Axum – Land of the Ancients

The final leg of our journey took us to Axum, home to the ancient Aksumite Empire. Here, towering stelae stand as silent sentinels, marking the graves of kings from millennia ago. The Church of St. Mary of Zion, believed to house the Ark of the Covenant, added an air of mystery to our visit.

The highlight of Axum was the ruins of Queen of Sheba’s Palace, a reminder of Ethiopia’s powerful role in ancient history. The combination of historical grandeur and the legends that surround these sites made for an unforgettable end to our journey.



Day 7: Farewell to Ethiopia

Our final day was spent back in Addis Ababa, where we visited the museum housing the famous Lucy skeleton, one of the world’s oldest human ancestors. As we reflected on the past week, it was clear that Ethiopia is a country like no other – a place where history, legend, and breathtaking landscapes come together in perfect harmony.

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