Into the Okavango

Claire Monson, founder of Hassle-free Africa, tells us about her experiences in Botswana's legendary Okavango Delta - one of Southern Africa's most renowned safari destinations. Here is her account of a recent trip exploring this incredible wilderness...

My Botswanan adventure began with a small plane buzzing over earthy brown plains dotted with shrubs and long, dusty roads. Leaving Johannesburg's winter chill behind, I was greeted by the warm embrace of the African sun as we descended towards Maun, the gateway to the Okavango Delta.

Maun's bustling energy surprised me. Gone was the image of a one-horse town; replaced by a hub feeding tourism with lodges, shops, and a sense of pride in its natural treasures. A warm Botswana welcome awaited, a feeling that would stay with me throughout the trip.

Island Safari Lodge, nestled by the Thamalakane River, became my first stop. This charming lodge offered a taste of the Delta experience with pools, a restaurant, and a curio shop. Here, I met the professional team behind our Botswana tour operator, their passion for the region evident in their well-maintained vehicles and top-notch equipment.

After a day of learning, I was whisked away to Sitatunga Camp. This welcoming spot offered comfortable chalets, perfect for budget-conscious travellers. Horseback safaris, boat cruises, and nature walks were all on offer, but a surprise awaited: a tranquil boat cruise on the Thamalakane River itself. The river teemed with birdlife, from the majestic Fish Eagle to the elusive Jacana. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in fiery hues, I knew this trip would be unforgettable.

Sitatunga Camp catered to all appetites with a diverse menu and a well-stocked bar. After a refreshing dip in the pool and a good book under the warm rays, it was time to head back to Maun Airport to meet my fellow adventurers.

Our adventure truly began with a scenic charter flight in a small Cessna. Flying low over the lush plains, a patchwork of emerald waterways teeming with wildlife unfolded beneath us. Herds of elephants grazed peacefully, a mere hint of the wonders to come.

A bumpy landing on a dusty airstrip led us to our welcoming safari guides and a sturdy Toyota Land Cruiser. Our first safari was a feast for the senses: elephants, antelope, warthogs, and a dazzling array of birds filled our view.

Arriving at Fallen Baobab Camp, the sound of singing filled the air. "We welcome you, our guests," they sang, as we were handed cool facecloths. The centrepiece of the camp was a magnificent fallen baobab tree, creating a natural archway over the lounge and dining areas. Our twin-share tents, perched on platforms, offered surprising comfort – complete with en-suite bathrooms and hot showers heated by a clever donkey boiler system.

As twilight painted the sky, we gathered around a crackling campfire, enjoying a delicious dinner and lively entertainment by the camp staff. The night serenaded us with the calls of birds and the trumpeting of elephants, a mere stone's throw away.

The first morning began with a steaming cup of coffee and a hearty breakfast. Our most anticipated activity awaited: a mokoro ride through the winding channels. Gently poled by a local guide, we glided past tall reeds and vast lily fields, the cool morning air refreshing on our skin. Suddenly, a family of elephants emerged from the bushes, lumbering towards the water. They splashed playfully, their little one holding its trunk high in the air, until they noticed us. With a startled trumpet, they vanished into the bush, leaving behind an unforgettable memory.

The rest of the day unfolded in a blur of exciting safaris, spotting a variety of antelope, baboons, and even more elephants. As the sun began to set, we arrived at Kana Kara, another beautiful camp nestled on an island. Here, we were greeted with a chorus of welcoming songs, cool facecloths, and a briefing on our itinerary for the next two days. Our tents, similar to the ones before, boasted comfortable beds and en-suite facilities, with a bucket shower replacing the donkey-powered system.

After a relaxing afternoon, we embarked on another mokoro adventure, exploring the surrounding islands and enjoying the vibrant sunset. Back at camp, a delicious three-course meal awaited, each dish a testament to the skills of the camp's chefs, especially considering the remote location.

As darkness fell, we gathered around a bonfire, sharing stories of the day's sightings. That night, the rhythmic chewing of an elephant right outside my tent lulled me to sleep, a truly unique lullaby.

The next day brought a thrilling speedboat ride through the wetlands, taking us to Jumbo Junction, a camp catering to budget-conscious travellers. The permanently set tents offered comfortable sleeping arrangements, with shared shower and toilet facilities. A mokoro safari led us to the famous "Hippo Pool," where a well-known hippo named Joe lounged with his companions. Lunch under the shade of a cool boma was a welcome respite before our speedboat journey back to Kana Kara.

The afternoon brought a dose of healthy excitement: a bush walk with a difference – lions were in the area! Our experienced guides, armed with rifles for safety, led us single file through the bush, learning to identify animal tracks and the subtle differences between elephant, hippo, and buffalo dung. The thrill of being in the wild, so close to these apex predators, was exhilarating – a testament to the expertise of our guides.

Back at camp, a delicious three-course meal, complete with apple crumble and custard, fuelled our evening around the campfire. This night, the haunting roars of lions in the distance provided a thrilling soundtrack to our final night in the Delta.

With heavy hearts, we said goodbye to the incredible staff at Kana Kara. A steaming cup of coffee and a quick breakfast fuelled our last morning safari before reaching the airstrip and our flight back to Maun.

This Botswana adventure had everything: scenic flights, heart-pounding game drives, tranquil mokoro rides, exhilarating speedboat journeys, and educational bush walks. While we didn't see the lions face-to-face, their presence and roars added to the mystique of the experience.

Now, I eagerly await the chance to share the wonders of the Okavango Delta – the sights, the smells of wild sage, and the unforgettable sounds – with Hassle-free Africa's clients.

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